[NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question

Atwood, Mark atwoodm at paragon-inc.com
Thu Nov 22 08:02:08 AKST 2007


Am I the only guy stuck peeling potatoes???

Beer has potential though...

Happy T-Day everyone.

-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Scott
Anderson
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 12:02 PM
To: NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question

yep that is the same way as Dennis Hunt does it, I learned from him, the

only difference is we tape the wood together with small pieces of clear
tape 
(foam side) then us a sealer on the wood, and let dry. Then squeegee on
the 
polyglue and make it just damp, or not tacky when touched. carbon is
added 
to wood side and a bit more  poly glue over that area.. then like said
mist 
the foam and line up wood and foam, the difference is we use a vacuum
bag 
system and let dry 4-6 hrs.. very strong no failures to date, and easy
to 
work with.
Just my 2 cents, back to the shop and building, oh yeah time for a
beer..

Scott 529
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "george w. kennie" <geobet at gis.net>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question


> Jim,
> The stuff is extremely easy to use. Squeegee it on the skins in the
same 
> way
> you do the epoxy. There's no need to hurry, it doesn't flash off on
you 
> the
> way epoxy does.I have a small bottle filled with H2O that has a
spraycap
> fitted and I just lightly mist the cores before attaching the skins.I
have
> two pieces of  2'x4'x3/4" chipboard that I use, one beneath and one on
top
> of the shucks. On top of the top board I place two Cement Blocks. The 
> blocks
> weigh 42 pounds apiece and the chipboard is probably another 15-20
> additional pounds. Sounds like a lot, but the results are super. If
you 
> try
> this method, you will probably not go back to epoxy.I think the bond
is
> stronger and the U migration into the foam strengthens the foam
yielding a
> stiffer wing. The weight is probably the critical factor as the
expansive
> forces of the glue are significant.
> Good Luck,
> Georgie
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "J N Hiller" <jnhiller at earthlink.net>
> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 4:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question
>
>
>>I have been reluctant to try it thinking I would screw it up. How much
do
>> you put on? How much weight is needed to contain the expansion.
>> Jim Hiller
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]  On Behalf Of
wgalligan
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 1:14 PM
>> To: NSRCA Mailing List
>> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question
>>
>> If this question was raised as a method for skinning wings, then why
not
>> use
>> urethane glue. One part, spreads easy and cures hard and quickly with
>> plain
>> ole 02moisture.  Gives ample working time and unlike epoxy will
expand
>> with
>> moisture to fill voids and between foam beads.  Available at local
>> hardware
>> stores and less expensive.
>>
>> Seems like a no-brainer to me.
>>
>> Wayne Galligan
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "J N Hiller" <jnhiller at earthlink.net>
>> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 2:00 PM
>> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Epoxy Question
>>
>>
>>> Thin Epoxy? I have been using "HOBBYPOXY SMOOTH 'N' EASY" epoxy 
>>> finishing
>>> resin to skin foam wings, spreading it with a scrap balsa squeegee.
It
>>> has
>>> ample working time and is thinner than glue. Is this OK? I have had
no
>>> problems using it on unsealed skins at about one ounce per 800
square
>>> inches. I need to try sealing the skins on my next build.
>>> Jim Hiller
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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----
>> ----
>>
>>
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>>
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