[NSRCA-discussion] After run oil?

[wgalligan]

OK.... time to open this can of worms again.   Are there some types of 
additives that can cause fouling or glassing of the plug element?  It seems 
to me after I stopped using after run oil my plugs seemed to last longer.  I 
am like Dr. Mike, just run it. I usually run the engine dry if I know its 
going to set up for a spell. When I take the engine apart even after running 
the engine out of fuel there is still a LOT of oil in the crank.  I am sure 
if the engine is going to sit unrun for extended periods its a good idea to 
lube the engine by taking out the plug and running plenty of an 
anti-corrosive type of lube through the engine to keep the crank and sleeve 
from developing rust.

Wayne Galligan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Simes" <simestd at netexpress.com>
To: "NSRCA discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] After run oil?


>
> The list is a little quiet this morning, and I'm troubleshooting a
> possible delivery issue with AOL, so I thought I would lob in a question
> likely to spur some discussion :)
>
> For years I was in the "just run the fuel out and put it away camp".
> However, I had the occasion to send an engine back to OS because the
> cylinder plating had failed.  To their credit, they replaced the whole
> engine gratis, even though it was a year out of warranty.  Their only
> comment on the receipt was to make sure I was using after run oil.
>
> I don't think the plating failure was caused by not using after run, but
> I do know that I replaced bearings in that engine very early in it's
> service life and there was internal rust after < 2 gallons through it.
> At the time I put in stainless bearings and didn't worry about it
> further.
>
> Some things I *think* I know about after run oil....
>
> Hobbico AR is Marvel Mystery Oil (MSDS documents are the same) and it
> has no particular anti-corrosion properties.  My understanding is it's
> basically a combination of solvents in a light carrier oil.
>
> Silicone components in some engines (YS) may be damaged by some commonly
> used AR oils.
>
> ATF seems to be popular and has good anti-corrosion agents.
>
> Rislone also seems to be popular - like MMO, lots of solvents but with
> some added anti-corrosion agents as well.
>
> Synthetic oils (Mobil 1) seem to be safe for all engine
> components (including YS?).
>
> When OS says in their instructions not to put AR oil in the carburetor,
> they are specifically referring to not putting it through the needle
> valve / spraybar.  Putting AR oil in via the carb barrel is fine, and
> something like 1/4 - 1/2 tsp is an appropriate amount.
>
> So, if you are using after run oil, what kind are you using and how do
> you keep it from making a mess in your field gear?  I've been using
> Mobil 1 5W30 and applying it with an eye dropper, but I'm looking for
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
>
> ======================================================================
>   "Z-80 system stack overflow.  Shut 'er down Scotty, the system's
>         sucking mud" - Error message on TRS 80 Model-16B
>
> Tom Simes                                       simestd at netexpress.com
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