[NSRCA-discussion] Monokote on Monokote

jivey61 at bellsouth.net jivey61 at bellsouth.net
Mon Feb 19 10:46:28 AKST 2007


Ken..All
The trim solvent  will make a mess,it activates the color and it can bleed
the edges. The trim solvent if used by itself sticks too quick and you can't
move it around. I have used the windex method ,however I like my mixture
better.You don't have to use a iron to seal the edges.
Mix 1 oz trim solvent to 4oz water and add 1 oz of momma's dish
detergent.Put this in a small spray bottle and spray both sides of the
material.
There is enough solvent to activate the monocote glue and the soap detergent
mixture allows you to position the piece...Squeegee off as usual with
playing card and dry with a clean towel to absorb the water.If you use a
credit card it will scratch the color. I have looked at the foam brushes
like you can get at Home Depot or building supply houses,but haven't tried
them yet. In 30 minutes you can seal the edges with MEK and a small brush
and you are done.The monocote piece is stuck permanent with no bubbles and
the MEK has sealed the edges permanently. Walk off and leave it until next
day.  IF any bleeding has occured acetone cleans it off nicely the next day.

Jim Ivey


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken Thompson" <mrandmrst at comcast.net>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Monokote on Monokote


>
> I believe you're referring to MonoKote trim solvent.  They say it is to be
> used like any "wet apply" method, wipe it on with a soft lint free cloth
and
> apply your trim.  The bottom layer needs to stay wet, just as in the
Windex
> method, and squeegee out the bubbles, let it dry for 24 hours and go fly.
>
> Personally I like the Windex method and let it dry overnight, gentle heat
to
> activate the adhesive and call it good!  The Windex method allows you to
> reposition the trim for quite a while.
>
> I've only used the trim solvent on a couple of occasions, strictly small
> pieces and it does work.  I'm afraid to try it on anything large, though.
>
> Ken
>
>
> >
> > k6xyz wrote:
> >>
> >> I have a bottle of some kind of liquid to attach MK over MK but I've
> >> never tried it.
> >>
> >> Has anyone used it and how did you like it?
> >>
> >> Regards
> >>
> >> Dave Harmon
> >> NSRCA 586
> >> K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net
> >> Sperry, Ok.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> *From:* nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
> >> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] *On Behalf Of *Mark
> >> Atwood
> >> *Sent:* Sunday, February 18, 2007 2:04 PM
> >> *To:* NSRCA Mailing List
> >> *Subject:* Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Monokote on Monokote
> >>
> >> Can it be too cold to build???
> >>
> >> Windex is definitely the best of those three. I've had very good
> >> results with even semi large pieces (maybe 4" wide...anything wider
> >> and I'll typically only do one layer). Don't skimp on the windex. Both
> >> layers of monokote have to be clean...any dust will show up as a bump
> >> under the film. I coat both the piece I'm putting down, as well as the
> >> surface I'm putting it on, with a brush. Spraying it doesn't get
> >> enough on (unless you go crazy) and just creates a million air bubbles
> >> rather than a smooth film of liquid. I have it sloppy wet...then slide
> >> the pieces into position, and I use a small 4" shower squeegee to
> >> squeeze the windex out. You'll have zero bubbles...and it will adhere
> >> from suction pretty aggressively. Yes...you'll have a wet mess so a
> >> few paper towels are in order. Wait at least 24 hours and then use an
> >> iron set just warm enough to anchor Monokote to Monokote without any
> >> shrinking.
> >>
> >> If you heat it too soon (same day) there's enough moisture still
> >> trapped between the two layers that you'll vaporize it and cause a
> >> bazillion bubbles.
> >>
> >> -Mark
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2/18/07 12:55 PM, "Ed White" <edvwhite at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> OK, Question for those finding it too cold to build. Is it possible to
> >> put monokote on top of monokote and get decent results? Tried the poke
> >> holes and windex/soap methods and not impressed with the results. Any
> >> other ideas?
> >>
> >> Ed
> >>
> >> */ORLANDO FRETS <ojfrets at earthlink.net>/* wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> Temperature in low 30's. It's cold! It's also too cold to build, shop
> >> is cold. Stay inside where it's warm.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ORLANDO FRETS
> >>
> >> ojfrets at earthlink.net
> >>
>
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> >>
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