[NSRCA-discussion] monokote
Dave Harmon
K6XYZ at valornet.com
Wed Mar 22 16:38:46 AKST 2006
Pete..that's exactly what happened to me over 2 years ago...I was pretty
disappointed to say the least!
Regards
Dave Harmon
NSRCA 586
K6XYZ[at]valornet[dot]com
Broken Arrow, Ok.
-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Pete
Cosky
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 1:59 PM
To: geobet at gis.net; NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] monokote
George,
I though it was just me until I came across this on RCU
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3981146
I have a 25% Extra that has all the white wrinkled horribly. I'm not
great at covering and usually have a friend of mine do the nice planes
for me, but I have never had covering this bad even when I was 11 and
getting started in this hobby.
The above link is goes to the retort by Hobbico customer service.
----- Original Message -----
From: George Kennie <mailto:geobet at gis.net>
To: NSRCA Mailing List <mailto:nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 2:39
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Motor Mount Bonding
Speaking of Monokote!,............I noticed some irregularities a couple
of planes back, but couldn't really put my finger on anything specific,
thinking it was probably some oversight in my application technique (too
little heat, too much heat?). Then I built an Exceleron and decided to
do a little trim scheme on the wheel pants using Monokote as the
trimming agent, which I had done many times in the past (and I stress
MANY).I used regular Monokote, (not the Trim Strip variety) and cut out
my design and ironed it on and it appeared to be O.K. I set the plane
aside and came back a couple of days later only to find all of the
trimming designs lying on the floor beside the wheel pants.
I have had several instances since then where I had similar results
trying to get the stuff to adhere to any painted surface.
I just completed a small bird that I costructed quite lightly with the
nose of the aircraft being planked and everything from the T.E. back
being open structure.Due to the fact that I made the canopy out of glass
I decided to paint the forward part of the fuse and film the aft
portion. Everything went pretty much O.K. until I got to the point of
trimming. In the areas where the trim was applied over MonoKote it
seemed to be normal, but when the trim was applied to the painted
portion of the fuse I had difficulty making the stuff stick, and indeed,
I have re-ironed it down about 6 or 8 times since it's original
application. I have been toying with the idea of maybe trying to use
some Balsarite under the trim to see if I can get it to stick to the
paint, but have some apprehension about whether the Balsarite might
raise havoc with the paint (Concept).
The other thing that I've noticed is that it is now much easier to lift
Monokote film that you have previously applied by using a little heat
and the stuff comes up easily. In the old days, if you tried to lift the
stuff the color would be left behind and you would have transparrent
cellophane on your hands.
At the Wram's Show, I picked up a Quest from Eric and I noticed that the
covering material being used by this manufacturer is different than
either Mono or Ultra in that it appears to have a weave structure in the
backing. Almost looks like Coverite if you look at the backside, but the
front side is as glossy as Monokote. It's also quite strong and stretchy
if you try to pull it apart. The adhesive appears to be quite strong as
well. It is possible to lift it with the application of heat, but it
leaves significant color stuck to the underlying surface.It appears, to
me, to be a really good quality film, not at all like the old "Chinese
Shelf Paper." Maybe Great Planes would be well served to do a little
research?
Georgie
mike mueller wrote:
I've recently switched from using El's mounts made in Canada to Budd
mounts. The weight savings is 3 oz. over the Hyde type mounts. That's
significant in anybody's book. Jerry also has excellent customer service
and responds to emails which is refreshing these days. Seems to me that
he has takin a totally proactive approach to fix a problem. Now the
Monokote people are another story! Mike
jeffghughes at comcast.net wrote:
Seems like a little bit of a low blow, considering Jerry was trying to
make things right with his customers.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Michael Cohen" <precisionaero at comcast.net>
> Lets see how much traffic this e-mail generates. Oh well, I was bored
lately
! > anyway..... :)
>
> Mike Cohen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Darr"
> To: "NSRCA Discussion"
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 5:53 PM
> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Motor Mount Bonding
>
>
> > Merle Hyde asked me to post this on the discussion page for him.
> >
> >
> > Subj: Soft Mount Bonding
> >
> > "OH" really - so the adhesive is the final solution!!!! If the
rubber
> > won't tear or fail first the bond is not sufficient. I have tested
the
> > latest offering and it ca! n also be pulled apart - peels off like a
tougher
> > "lemon"!!!! Modelers really "NEED" a mount in a 2-20 thousand dollar
> > aircraft that can and probably will fail!!!!
> >
> > Approximately 40 rubber fabricators have been contacted to mass
produce! a
> > reliable rubber bond. They will prototype for $200,000-$300,000 with
no
> > guarantees. The genuine Hyde Mount rubber bond is a 4-6 hour direct
labor
> > process - with a proven life of over 7000 flights. Upon disassembly
of
> > high time genuine Hyde Mounts it appears the bond would likely
remain
> > reliable for 14,000 flights or equal to the expected rubber life!!!!
> >
> > Hyde Mounts are so reliable that even the severe cantilever force
loads
> > imposed upon the rubber bonding of NO NOSE RING required Hyde Mounts
have
> > been proven to endure thousands of flights without pull apart or f!
ailure.
> >
> > Some have experienced problems and beam breakage with undrilled
nylon
> > composite beam Hyde Mounts offered several years ago. Modelers often
did
> > not drill or install blinds nuts per suggestions provided. Hyde
Mount
> > n! ylon
> > beams when properly drilled are designed to break at around 100 lbs.
force
> > load - or at around 50G's for a 2 lb. engine - aircraft snap at
around
> > 15-18
> > Gs. Hyde Mounts now with pre-drilled beams and blind nuts installed
have
> > only been reported to break when crashed or impacted. The deliberate
100
> > lbs. force breakage point often prevents more severe damage to the
> > engine/crankshaft/firewall/aircraft/mount.
> >
> > Salvage your hardware investment: Reliable rubber bonding service
> > available for the "do-it-yourself" mount builder or other brands.
Simply
> > send your preferred hardware parts and rubber to: Merle Hyde !
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Thanks - Merle
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > NSRCA-discussion mailing list
> > NSRCA-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
> > http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> NSRCA-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
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