[NSRCA-discussion] Fw: Remote Glow Trouble

[Scott Smith]

Remote Glow TroubleThe Tetra's will last a long time (200+ flights) on a
soft mount with two mods:

JBWeld on the terminal and wire under a new piece of heat shrink (prevents
the wire from breaking at the crimp or the terminal breaking where they bend
it.)
A 1/16" (or there about) piece of fuel tubing placed on the glow plug stem
before attaching the cap (prevents the cap from vibrating and wearing on the
stem.)

But yes, sometimes low tech is better!

Scott
  -----Original Message-----
  From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Ed Miller
  Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 5:25 PM
  To: NSRCA Mailing List
  Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Fw: Remote Glow Trouble


  Forgot to mention, I tried Tetra, MK and Hangar 9 ends on the glow plug
end. None of them lasted very long with a soft mount.  What has lasted is a
small alligator clip from Radio Shack with a piece of large fuel tubing over
it to keep it from shorting on the head.  Sometimes low tech is best.
  Ed M.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ed Miller
  To: NSRCA Mailing List
  Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 5:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Remote Glow Trouble


  Ran into this with a Mintor head on an OS 140RX.  I found removing the
anodizing from the seat of the plug hole, where the plug washer sits was
also necessary.  Check for a good ground from your engine lug through the
ground wire to your jack in the plane.  I was using a Hangar 9 set up and
found the ground wire had a great deal of resistance so I replaced it.
  Ed M.
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Pascoe,Tim [Burlington]
    To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
    Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 4:03 PM
    Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Remote Glow Trouble


    I recently put a remote glow system on my Mintor 1.70, but haven’t yet
managed to get it to work. Following some suggestions from the list, I
carefully removed the anodizing on the inside of the head, where it seats on
the rim of the sleeve. I’m getting a closed circuit, according to my
igniter, but apparently the current is not high enough to get the plug hot
enough to start the engine. I used fairly heavy silicone wrapped wire
(similar to that used for RC Car batteries), and I’m wondering if perhaps
this is causing too much resistance? The remote is grounded on a mounting
bolt of the engine. ’m using an older Radio South Pro-Driver MKII, and get 4
lights when the remote is connected. Can I boost the power to the plug
somehow? Or should I change another part of the installation? It uses a
specially machined collar to lock on the glow plug tip with set screws, and
a standard 2.5mm power jack through the fuse side.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Tim Pascoe



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