[NSRCA-discussion] paint

WGALLIGAN wgalligan at goodsonacura.com
Wed Jul 12 13:00:11 AKDT 2006


It's still out there.  I have a half a jar of red if your interested in it.  


Wayno
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jay Marshall 
  To: 'NSRCA Mailing List' 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 1:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint


  I'll show my age. What ever happened to good ol' Aerogloss?

   

  -----Original Message-----
  From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of twtaylor
  Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 3:40 PM
  To: 'NSRCA Mailing List'
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint

   

  If you're going with electric why bother to use fuel proof paint?

   


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  From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Ed Miller
  Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 3:33 PM
  To: NSRCA Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint

   

  Imron, if true Imron, is both very expensive and fuel proof. However I do not believe it is fire proof for the electron crowd.............

  Ed M.

    ----- Original Message ----- 

    From: WGALLIGAN 

    To: NSRCA Mailing List 

    Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 2:44 PM

    Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint

     

    This is such a delightful enlightenment on battery exhaust and cell balancing acts... pertaining to chemically stimulated painted model aircraft surfaces.

      ----- Original Message ----- 

      From: Gray E Fowler 

      To: NSRCA Mailing List 

      Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 11:13 AM

      Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint

       


      Tim 

      I am unaware of Imron properties. Clear coat is a protection for some systems that are not fuel proof and for pigmented car systems that absolutely require a reactive clear coat. I do not trust that a paint shop person is aware of the nitromethane chemical resistance of Imron. Pehaps someone on this list does know. 

      Single stage paints, such as PPG DBU etc are a non reactive carrier resin pigmented with a color and fillers. They basically "dry" or evaporate a solvent and what is left behind is the non reacted resin and color. Clearcoats are reactive, which is a thermosetting polymer-non reversable. Single stage paints dry and then can be removed with a slovent wipe, or fuel on your plane. 

      But! it is important tp point out that single stage paints are not affected by electric battery exhaust, except for the occasional unbalanced cell act. 



      Gray Fowler
      Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
      Radome and Composites Engineering
      Raytheon 

            "Tim" <twortkoetter at yahoo.com> 
            Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org 

            07/12/2006 10:39 AM 

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      I am getting ready to spray imron.  I have never painted anything.  I told the paint shop what I was using it for and they said I didn't need a clear and I didn't get any reducer.  What type of reducer and how much should I use for this type of paint.  Also why do you use clear over a single stage paint.   

      Tim 

      -----Original Message-----
      From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Gray E Fowler
      Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 8:17 AM
      To: NSRCA Mailing List
      Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint 


      Robert 

      Humidity is not a problem, dew point is. Since it is warm now in most places this should not be a problem.  The amount of reducer called out by the paint manufacturer has two purposes, 

      1. Reduce the viscosity so a standard paint gun can atomize 
      2. Only reduce the viscosity barely enough as to meet EPA volatile organic emmision requirements 

      The PPG "reducer" amounts allow the car painting guy to seriously "lay it on" with out fear of runs or overspray. Unfortunately laying it on an airplane increases weight. A thicker clear coat will not really protect your plane better than a thinner coat, so it is just weight. Adding more reducer (its really a blend of different solvents)  will allow for thinner coats, less overspray, but can increase runs. 

      The reducer like I mentioned is a blend of solvents, and all of this 100% evaporates and has nothing to do with the urethane chemical reaction that cures the clearcoat. You can add as much reducer as you want without reprisal...except from the EPA, which I doubt will go after an individual pattern guy...but I could be wrong.  So once you are comfortable with increasing your local pollution level...add that 200% reducer!!! 



      Gray Fowler
      Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
      Radome and Composites Engineering
      Raytheon 

            "Robert Mairs" <robertm at sssnet.com> 
            Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org 

            07/12/2006 05:42 AM 

             

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      Couple of painting questions.

      Weathers turned to crap around here again.  How much humidity is to humid to 
      paint?

      I've been reading where the jet guys are reducing they're clear coat to a 
      200% ratio.  They think it's great.  Anybody tried this? 


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