[NSRCA-discussion] YS140DZ idle question-answer

Tue Aug 1 08:39:10 AKDT 2006

Hey Bob,'

     For that fourstroke you really need 30%. Because 20% doesn't run good 
in it.

Plus try using some 30% MAGNUM FUEL.

                  Matt
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Kane" <getterflash at yahoo.com>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 6:04 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS140DZ idle question-answer

> PowerMaster 30%DZ blend. If I were to buy new fuel
> right now I would buy 20%, no need for 30%, even at 95
> degree F temperatures.
>
> RPM? I don't know, I have not measured it. I will the
> next flying session.
>
> The 18.1X10 is heavy, I had to relieve the openings in
> the cowl due to the increased rotation of the engine
> on the Hyde mount during idle. I'm hoping Mejzlik
> comes out with a similar prop.
>
>
> --- Peter Pennisi <pentagon.systems at bigpond.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> What RPM are you getting with the 18.1 X 10 APC W
>> and what fuel are you
>> using?
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On
>> Behalf Of Bob Kane
>> Sent: Tuesday, 1 August 2006 1:14 PM
>> To: NSRCA Mailing List
>> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS140DZ idle
>> question-answer
>>
>> No. The DZ series does not use a pressurized fuel
>> system. The fuel is "sucked" from the tank by the
>> fuel
>> pump on the down stroke of the intake pushrod (valve
>> closing), and "squirted" out to the injector as the
>> intake valve pushrod opens the valve. The regulator
>> on
>> the front of the fuel pump limits the fuel pressure
>> by
>> opening when the fuel pressure is sufficient to
>> overcome the spring tension in the regulator. The
>> spring is much stiffer than the spring in the FZ/L
>> series motors. There is no low end adjustment on the
>> carb in the DZ series, so the regulator is used to
>> set
>> the idle mixture. Start the engine, set the high end
>> needle as you would on any other YS, pull the
>> throttle
>> back to idle. If the engine slows down and dies, it
>> is
>> rich, turn the regulator out to lean it. If it
>> speeds
>> up and dies, it is lean, turn it in to richen it.
>> Recheck the high speed needle.
>>
>> These engines will not tolerate restrictive fuel
>> filters. I am currently using a Sullivan Crap Trap
>> to
>> keep the big boulders out of the fuel system and it
>> is
>> working well. I'm still playing with using a check
>> valve on the vent side of the tank. It works well
>> without it but I get some leakage out of the vent.
>>
>> I have recently been through an extensive learning
>> experience with the pump system on these engines. If
>> the fuel lines past the pump blow off the fittings,
>> the pump regulator is set too rich or is sticking
>> closed. If you are having trouble with the
>> adjustments
>> it might be time to have the pump/engine serviced.
>>
>> I will say the power of the 160DZ is incredible, way
>> more than what is needed to pull my Temptation
>> through
>> the Masters sequence. I'm running an APC 18.1X10
>> prop,
>> the thing pulls like a locomotive and slows down as
>> if
>> you threw the anchor out. Vertical uplines, even
>> with
>> rolls are just over half throttle. The only possible
>> disadvantage is the prop is heavy and will probably
>> cause more rapid conrod wear.
>>
>>
>> --- vicenterc at comcast.net wrote:
>>
>> > Eric,
>> >
>> > I got a new YS 160 DZ.  Is this procedure
>> equivalent
>> > for both engines?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Vicente "Vince" Bortone
>> >
>> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
>> > From: "Grow Pattern" <pattern4u at comcast.net>
>> >
>> > Michael,
>> >              The big and first thing to remember
>> is
>> > that the DZ uses a pump. If you keep thinking
>> about
>> > the pump as a regulator it may not help you set
>> your
>> > engine. Unfortunately the instructions call it a
>> > regulator. The fuel is metered out to the carb by
>> > the pushrod action and the "pulsating" crankcase
>> > pressure operates the pump side.
>> >
>> > The next thing is that the carb does two things.
>> It
>> > controls the air flow to the inlet valve and the
>> > fuel supply to the injector. Even though the
>> needle
>> > effects all of the fuel flow it is not the right
>> > thing to use to get a good idle. Many people
>> > accidentally/unintentionally override the pump
>> > settings with the main needle to get a good
>> low-end
>> > rpm.
>> >
>> > The "regulator" screw restricts the primary fuel
>> > flow and is the one that you must use to set an
>> idle
>> > and transition. If you get the big brass screw set
>> a
>> > bit too rich it will keep dousing the plug,
>> > especially at low rpm.
>> >
>> > The trick to a good setting is to keep closing the
>> > pumped fuel supply until the engine will not run
>> any
>> > more.
>> >
>> > You do this by turning the big brass screw
>> clockwise
>> > about 1/8 of a turn and then start and warm up
>> the
>> > engine. Keep the main needle at about 1.5 turns or
>> > more and don't worry if it runs a bit rich as you
>> > open the throttle about half way, in short bursts.
>> > Do this again and again until the engine will not
>> > start or keep running at idle or open up.
>> >
>> > You are now very close. Turn the brass screw back
>> > anti-clockwise about 1/8 of turn. and see if the
>> > engine will start and idle. It should be able to
>> go
>> > as low as, and hold about, 1.500 rpm.for about a
>> > minute. If the throttle smoothly increases the rpm
>> > you have a good low-end setting. (Go more "open"
>> on
>> > the brass screw if it is needed to keep it
>> running).
>> >
>> > Now is the time set your top-end needle. It may
>> need
>> > more or less fuel so please open up carefully and
>> > listen for the warning "bark". Richen the main
>> > needle if it barks. If all goes well, set the
>> > high-end needle for max rpm and then richen it
>> back
>> > about 500 rpm.
>> >
>> > After that it should run like a Swiss-watch, start
>> > better, and last a good while. It should not quit
>> in
>> > the air or on the ground.
>> >
>> > Please let me know if this worked for you.
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Eric.
>> > ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > From: Michael Cohen
>> > To: NSRCA Mailing List
>> > Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 2:31 PM
>> > Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS140DZ idle question
>> >
>> >
>> > OK list, I have a question for you.  I have a
>> 140DZ
>> > that will not idle below 2300ish RPM.  Richard
>> > Lindberg and I have adjusted the regulator, but it
>> > appears to have little or no effect.  I might be
>> > able to get one flight in, but eventually, on a
>> down
>> > line, it will die and 7 dead sticks are not that
>> fun
>> > to try.   Full power seems to hold just fine.  We
>> > figured there might be an air leak, and that is
>> why
>> > it seemed to idle worse after a warm up flight, so
>> I
>> > replaced the valve cover gasket and the other
>> > gaskets at the backplate, but that did not seam to
>> > make a difference.  Anybody got any ideas besides
>> > the usual OS/Webra/Mintor/E-power/power slope
>> > soaring comments?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> > NSRCA-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
>> >
>>
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>>
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> Bob Kane
> getterflash at yahoo.com
>
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