Webra 160 help

[Grow Pattern]

Just blast it up inside with a small propane soldering torch. Heat and pull, 
heat and pull etc. Just don't hold the heat there very long or you will have 
piston-pie :-)

Eric.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Richards" <bob at toprudder.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: Webra 160 help


> FWIW, I've had some engines that the wristpin did not
> want to come out. Small amounts of varnish on the
> wristpin was the culprit. I used Z-Best cleaner
> applied to the wristpin to remove the varnish, and the
> wrist pin came out easily after that.
>
> I don't think you can get Z-Best anymore. It was
> basically a gelled paint remover, and I've bought some
> at a local Ace hardware. I don't remember the brand,
> I'll look the next time I get a chance.
>
> Bob R.
>
>
> --- Keith Black <tkeithb at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I agree totally with Dave's statement, if you don't
>> use method 1 below you will damage the conrod!
>>
>> BTW, I have had a couple of engines that required
>> "some force" to remove the wrist pin, and others
>> that required more force than I could provide. This
>> lead me creating a simple tool to pry the wrist pin
>> out. Get a long 4 mm screw and a butterfly nut and
>> thread it through a hard flat steel rod.  Screw the
>> end of the 4 mm screw into the wrist pin and then
>> turn the butterfly nut down against the steel rod
>> that is against the exhaust port.  To protect the
>> side of the piston I also put popsicle sticks
>> between the piston and the inside wall of the crank
>> case.
>>
>> This is sort of a reverse gear puller. See picture
>> at link below:
>>
>> http://www.fototime.com/865BF0EA2103D32/orig.jpg
>>
>> Keith Black
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>   From: DaveL322 at comcast.net
>>   To: discussion at nsrca.org
>>   Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:36 AM
>>   Subject: Re: Webra 160 help
>>
>>
>>   1st method is the way to go.
>>
>>   If the second method works - it is only because
>> there is enough play in the conrod that the conrod
>> (and/or possibly the wrist pin, or piston) need to
>> be replaced.  The conrod will most certainly need to
>> be replaced if the "pry" method is used.
>>
>>   Dave
>>
>>     -------------- Original message -------------- 
>>
>>     One way, the way I have done it.
>>
>>     Pull the head and the sleeve, the sleeve should
>> slide out; if not I put a wood dowel in the exhaust
>> port and nudge it up using a prop installed then you
>> can grip it and move it out. The sleeve is aluminum
>> so use care.
>>
>>     Go in through the exhaust port with a narrow
>> plier or hemostat and remove the circlip holding the
>> wrist pin in the piston, you can do this in a baggy
>> if you dont have a spare circlip cause the clip
>> might get away from you. Then use one of the head
>> bolts and thread it into the wrist pin through the
>> exhaust port and pull the pin, this might take some
>> force depending on how much then engines been ran.
>> If you can clean any crude out thats in the pin area
>> that might help. The piston will come off, the rod
>> will fall off the crank and come out the cylinder.
>>
>>     An alternate way that I have heard about is to
>> remove the sleeve and position the rod so you can
>> pry it off the crank leaving the piston and rod
>> together.
>>
>>     Brian
>>
>>     Wes Stafford <2flyrc at 3states.net> wrote:
>>       Hello All,
>>       I need help on changing the rear bearing on a
>> Webra 160. How do you
>>       remove the rod from the crank?
>>       Thanks,
>>       Wes
>>
>>
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