Webra 160 help

Bob Richards bob at toprudder.com
Wed Jun 1 10:19:40 AKDT 2005


FWIW, I've had some engines that the wristpin did not
want to come out. Small amounts of varnish on the
wristpin was the culprit. I used Z-Best cleaner
applied to the wristpin to remove the varnish, and the
wrist pin came out easily after that.

I don't think you can get Z-Best anymore. It was
basically a gelled paint remover, and I've bought some
at a local Ace hardware. I don't remember the brand,
I'll look the next time I get a chance.

Bob R.


--- Keith Black <tkeithb at comcast.net> wrote:

> I agree totally with Dave's statement, if you don't
> use method 1 below you will damage the conrod!
> 
> BTW, I have had a couple of engines that required
> "some force" to remove the wrist pin, and others
> that required more force than I could provide. This
> lead me creating a simple tool to pry the wrist pin
> out. Get a long 4 mm screw and a butterfly nut and
> thread it through a hard flat steel rod.  Screw the
> end of the 4 mm screw into the wrist pin and then
> turn the butterfly nut down against the steel rod
> that is against the exhaust port.  To protect the
> side of the piston I also put popsicle sticks
> between the piston and the inside wall of the crank
> case. 
> 
> This is sort of a reverse gear puller. See picture
> at link below:
> 
> http://www.fototime.com/865BF0EA2103D32/orig.jpg
> 
> Keith Black
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: DaveL322 at comcast.net 
>   To: discussion at nsrca.org 
>   Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:36 AM
>   Subject: Re: Webra 160 help
> 
> 
>   1st method is the way to go.
> 
>   If the second method works - it is only because
> there is enough play in the conrod that the conrod
> (and/or possibly the wrist pin, or piston) need to
> be replaced.  The conrod will most certainly need to
> be replaced if the "pry" method is used.
> 
>   Dave
> 
>     -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
>     One way, the way I have done it.
> 
>     Pull the head and the sleeve, the sleeve should
> slide out; if not I put a wood dowel in the exhaust
> port and nudge it up using a prop installed then you
> can grip it and move it out. The sleeve is aluminum
> so use care.
> 
>     Go in through the exhaust port with a narrow
> plier or hemostat and remove the circlip holding the
> wrist pin in the piston, you can do this in a baggy
> if you dont have a spare circlip cause the clip
> might get away from you. Then use one of the head
> bolts and thread it into the wrist pin through the
> exhaust port and pull the pin, this might take some
> force depending on how much then engines been ran.
> If you can clean any crude out thats in the pin area
> that might help. The piston will come off, the rod
> will fall off the crank and come out the cylinder.
> 
>     An alternate way that I have heard about is to
> remove the sleeve and position the rod so you can
> pry it off the crank leaving the piston and rod
> together.  
> 
>     Brian
> 
>     Wes Stafford <2flyrc at 3states.net> wrote:
>       Hello All,
>       I need help on changing the rear bearing on a
> Webra 160. How do you 
>       remove the rod from the crank?
>       Thanks,
>       Wes
> 
>      
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