[SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Pipe Life Questions

[Grow Pattern]

The sealed bearing usually have a red or black rubber seal. It is best to 
leave these undisturbed.

The shielded bearings, usually a thin metal shield, will leak/lose the 
grease over time. It is best to take one shield off. The grease can and will 
get everywhere that you do not want it to go. It can even inhibit the 
lubrication of the bearing by the fuel.

The grease should be removed with a solvent such as mineral spirits then 
re-lubricated prior to installation. I usually soak mine in Mobil-1 
overnight.

The shield that you remove is the rear one. Said another way, you should be 
able to see the ball-cage with the backplate removed.

Last but not least heat will kill any bearing,stainless or not. Running a 
tad lean or poorly cooled crankcase area will kill bearings as quick if not 
quicker than rust.

Regards,

Eric.

P.S. One last snippet...If you overheat a sealed bearing, or chemically 
corrupt the seal, you can get a condition to occur where the seal expands 
and lightly rubs on the crankshaft. This manifests itself in the engine, 
untypically, quitting at idle or low rpm's.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Ivey" <jivey61 at bellsouth.net>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Pipe Life Questions


> T-Bone
> Better count the BB's and get the same amount out as you put in.HEHE You 
> might have a weapon here and don't know it.
>
> Jim Ivey
>>
>> From: "T&C Brown" <tncbrown at charter.net>
>> Date: 2005/02/21 Mon PM 08:34:16 EST
>> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
>> Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Pipe Life Questions
>>
>> I'm familiar with what you speak off.  I use it from time to time, and 
>> always keep a couple of cans on hand.  99 cents a can at the local Auto 
>> Zone.  But, I don't think it would have the same effect as dunking it in 
>> a bucket of carb cleaner.  BTW, Auto Zone, Advance, Checker should sell 
>> the one gallon bucket of carb cleaner.  I have used it with good results 
>> as well.
>>
>> Back to the aerosol can idea.  Not sure if spraying the cleaner down the 
>> pipe would have the same effect with the evaporation properties it has, 
>> not to mention, not sure if the aerosol type is has potent as the bulk 
>> cleaner.
>> Maybe once you have sprayed the cleaner in, then plug the holes up for a 
>> while it would work.  Or maybe fill the pipe up, then add a few bee-bees, 
>> then shake the living dog-doo out of it.  Might be a pain to get the 
>> bee-bees back out, but it might help break up the carbon.
>> Just a thought....
>> T-Bone
>>
>>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>>   From: Bill Glaze
>>   To: discussion at nsrca.org
>>   Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 8:12 PM
>>   Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Pipe Life Questions
>>
>>
>>   T-bone:
>>   Now what I'm wondering is if I can find some of the carburetor cleaner 
>> that was in a spray can.  We used to use it to clean the red dye that was 
>> gummed all over the outside of the carb.  Spray it on, let it sit for a 
>> couple of minutes, brush it some with a stiff brush, blast it off with 
>> water.  Stuff a rag down the carb, and you didn't even need to take it 
>> off the manifold.  Spraying this stuff down the Hatori pipe, (the stuff 
>> comes with a long plastic tube, whose use is optional) could possibly get 
>> the job done.  It just may be time to go shopping.
>>
>>   Bill Glaze
>>
>>   T&C Brown wrote:
>>
>>     Bill,
>>     That's how I clean my Hatori pipes.  Works great....Just throw the 
>> sucker in the 5 gal bucket for two - three hours, rotating it end over 
>> end once, and they come out looking like new.  You'd be amazed how much 
>> carbon builds up on the inside.
>>     Now if I only had the guts to try it with my carbon pipe!  (BG)!
>>
>>     T-Bone
>>
>>       ----- Original Message ----- 
>>       From: Bill Glaze
>>       To: discussion at nsrca.org
>>       Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 8:35 AM
>>       Subject: [SPAM] Re: Pipe Life Questions
>>
>>
>>       Buff (and others who have had the same problem)
>>       About how many flights did it take to get the pipe blockage that 
>> you folks are talking about?  Obviously, it announces itself by degrading 
>> engine performance, and I was curious about when to start looking for the 
>> problem.  One of my Hatori pipes had a lot of crud on the outside, and I 
>> cleaned it with some Airplane Cleaner that I picked up at Advanced Auto 
>> Parts.  It took several applications, but did a fair job of cleaning. 
>> But--that's not the same as the inside of the pipe.  When I was building 
>> engines, I had a 5 gallon pail of carburetor cleaner and I'm wondering if 
>> that stuff would do any good.  It sure removed all the crud from a 
>> carburetor; while the race engines never got all that dirty, I did do 
>> other stuff besides, and I saw the carb cleaner work miracles.
>>
>>       Bill Glaze
>>       P.S. Buff:  See you at Myrtle Beach!
>>
>>
>>       Buff Miller wrote:
>>
>>         Hi Steve,
>>
>>
>>         You're not too late.  I had the pipe in the PP for 24 hours with 
>> no ill effects.  It did clean some carbon, as seen by chunks of carbon 
>> being flushed out.  But did it clean it thoroughly?  I guess the engine 
>> will tell me next time out.  Or, though I'm not quite ready for this; 
>> perform an autopsy on the pipe.
>>
>>
>>         Buff
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>         From: discussion-request at nsrca.org 
>> [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Steve Wiggin
>>         Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 11:41 AM
>>         To: discussion at nsrca.org
>>         Subject: Pipe Life Questions
>>
>>
>>         Be careful with the Purple Power on aluminum. If it's the same 
>> stuff I'm thinking of, made by Castrol, I used some to clean my 
>> motorcycle wheel and it pitted the aluminum rim! Hope this message is not 
>> too late.
>>
>>
>>         Steve
>>
>>
>
>
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