[NSRCA-discussion] Partner Canopy/wing sheeting
Nat Penton
natpenton at centurytel.net
Mon Dec 19 16:35:22 AKST 2005
Tom
You are surprised and I am puzzled. I have seen four Partners and a Lazulite
and they were all immaculate. I couldn't do as well. You think the French
are after the boys downunder <G>. Seriously though, I wonder what gives.
Thanks for the input.
Nat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 5:00 PM
Subject: RE: [NSRCA-discussion] Partner Canopy/wing sheeting
>
> Nat..
>
> I am surprised that you find them that good? I have found myself cutting
> new wings and stabs and doing it all again myself on at least the Lazulite
> ( the cores were what I would call sub standard and inaccurate). The
> Partner will do-but not what I'd consider better than what I can do
> myself.
>
> I have written a whole article on wood selection some years ago for our
> National organisation newsletter( The APA).I'll see if I can find it in my
> files somewhere.
>
> You need to be careful about wood selection and grain orientation to begin
> with, which helps tremendously.
> I have made up a large sliding sanding bar/jig for true-ing up sheets and
> then I match sheets to each other.
> I glue them together after they are hinged with normal tack masking tape,
> being careful not to stress the joint by pulling the sheets together to
> obtain good fit-a trap often fallen into!
>
> I then use "yellow" glue or some type of sandable aliphatic glue,
> dispensed from a plastic tipped syringe. I have never used cyno on a good
> sheeting job-it is too 'hard' an will not sand properly for me.
>
> I then lay the sheet down and use a damp cloth to 'wipe' the excess glue
> away. The damp cloth serves to clean up as well as cause some minor
> swelling of the grain around the glue joint-thus pushing it all nicely
> together for an invisible seam.
> Then lay it all on a flat bench, weighted down with some flat MDF.The MDF
> slows the drying processes well as keeping it flat. The longer it takes to
> dry the better-I leave mine for a day or so and I do no more than two
> sheets at a time, eventually splicing together a 'wing sheet'. Yes...I am
> a slow, very slow builder!!!
>
> Once you have a 'wing' sheet, the use at least a half sheet sanding block
> (available from an auto supplies shop-or as we in Australia call
> them.....'panel beater's' supplies)
>
> Then the next trick is to use Aluminium (or aluminum as you guys call it
> ..hahaha) oxide sandpaper in various grades. I usually start with 240
> grade and then sand down to 400 grade before actually sheeting the core.
> This must be done on a completely smooth bench. If you have steps in your
> sheeting where the joints are, then turn the sheeting often to sand as
> evenly a thickness as possible.
>
> Once a wing is sheeted and construction is finished I will finish sand the
> wing all the way down to 1500 grade( wet n dry) to a near "polish". During
> the finer grades I will use Methylated sprits to 'raise 'the grain and
> 'polish' again. I use a spray bottle on a mist setting to spray the
> surface to do this.
>
> Also make sure you have perfectly clean hands during this operation, oil
> etc-I wash frequently so that I do not 'contaminate' the surface. Then use
> a tack rag and start 'filming'.
>
>
> Simple- aint it?? Take time and care and I'll guarantee you will do a
> superior skinning job than what some French fellow under time pressure can
> ever do!
>
> Also-as a caveat-I must say this is just what I do-and plenty do it
> successfully another way.
>
> Hope it helps
>
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Nat Penton
> Sent: Monday, 19 December 2005 8:41 AM
> To: NSRCA Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Partner Canopy
>
>
> Tom
> I am amazed at how nice the balsa work is on the PL airplanes. I cannot
> get
> balsa skins that smooth. How do they do it ? Do they glue the sheets
> together or use tape ?
>
> It is difficult to buy sheets cut to that accuracy.
> Nat Penton
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 2:42 PM
> Subject: RE: [NSRCA-discussion] Partner Canopy
>
>
>>
>> Hi David...I have a Partner NIB. But depending how deep your pockets
>> are...and if you want to get it shipped from Australia (really how deep
>> are your pockets again??) I doubt it would be an option for you!!!
>>
>> Good luck in your search.
>>
>> Have you tried PL concept direct?Making a mould may be less hassle and
>> CHEAPER! Also I'm not sure if you were aware, but a Lazulite Canopy will
>> also fit the Partner with a little bit of a push and shove. I know of
>> more
>> Lazulites that were damaged during freight than Partners, so you may have
>> more luck finding one of them (BTW-I have one of those too-a damaged one
>> that is, which I have chosen to repair and build)
>>
>> Have great Christmas
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of David
>> Flynt
>> Sent: Friday, 16 December 2005 4:23 PM
>> To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
>> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Partner Canopy
>>
>>
>> I lost my PL Partner Canopy a while back. I am about to make my own mold
>> and build my own canopy, but I before I do that, does anybody happen to
>> have
>> a Partner Canopy that they would sell? Even a damaged canopy or one that
>> came from a damaged fuse and is painted would be better than making the
>> plug
>> and mold.
>>
>> If somebody has a NIB Partner kit that they want to sell, I am interested
>> also.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> David Flynt
>>
>> dflynt at verizon.net
>>
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