Finishing

[Steven Maxwell]

 Don't anyone get me wrong here I don't think it will ever have the glaze look of the Concept paints or hand rubbed laquer, even with the clear coat, but should look good enough using sport scale rules 10 Ft. LOL I done it to try and paint in the winter indoors my biggest problem was trying to use the Nelson as the clear coat over it.  Look at any airbrush work on custom cars and and the base paint has much more shine that the airbrush work. I do like how easy it is to use and clean up. The EP has changed what we need in paint. the other thing is I have weighed parts and and with a gram scale can't get a reading on a Focus cowl. It is great on foamys.
 Steve 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Steven Maxwell 
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Sent: 12/12/2005 3:10:07 AM 
Subject: Re: Finishing


 Createx isn't fuel proof. I done a protest sign on my van that I thought would just desolve off when it rained, not so it does crosslink so now I have white blotches of paint where it shid down the van off of windows so not a good surface way to slick is glass, you dye with a hair dryer if you want to work fast and do a whole plane in a few hours, the clear has to be used to fuel proof, it calls for polyu for clear, don't even try Nelson for clear they don't work together at all. Why I said could be good for EP.
 Steve 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lance Van Nostrand 
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Sent: 12/12/2005 2:23:33 AM 
Subject: Re: Finishing


So this stuff is fuel proof?  Does it mix with a hardener or just cure with heat and water evaportation?  I'm skeptical that something that doesn't crosslink can be fuel proof, but maybe this stuff actually cures into polymer chains like polyU glue?
--Lance

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Koenig, Tom 
To: discussion at nsrca.org 
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:45 PM
Subject: RE: Finishing


Steve/all,

I have clear coated a few planes for a friend of mine who uses the createx stuff. I just used an automotive two pack clear coat. It comes up ok but is very dependent on the skill of the 'createx' applicator! If it is applied to dry and the prep work sucks-no amount of clear coat will make it look good.
Infact I was blamed for the paint job!!! Nowadays-he takes his planes to a professional auto shop-and they charge him a packet of money with the same result. Works for me as its less possible exposure to the nasty stuff.

I also believe there may be some adhesion problems with createx if not applied correctly.His stuff I've seen flake off ( i.e.; prep work!!!)

My recommendation is to use the 'clear over base' system and just minimize the clear as it now no longer serves as a fuel proofing agent.

Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Steven Maxwell
Sent: Monday, 12 December 2005 12:24 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: RE: Finishing


 Nat over the last couple of years I have been playing with Createx Auto Airs http://www.autoaircolors.com/ they are water base paints that is used for airbrushing although they do need a clear coat to bring to a shine. They are extremely light and easy to use they just look dull as applied. They can be mixed and matched to anything and have 128 colors to choose from, theres a dealer you'll find on there dealer page called Dixie Art Supply in New Orleans http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html I have only cleared with Lustre Kote which is not recomended by them, but maybe for the electrics you won't need the clear. Good luck.
 Steve Maxwell


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Nat Penton 
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Sent: 12/11/2005 10:28:25 PM 
Subject: Finishing


I don't know whether to use polyurethane, latex, watercolor or crayola. These electrics present all kinds of problems.
                                                        Nat
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