Elev. Pull pull Question

[ronlock at comcast.net]

Another option- buy 6-32 all thread at local hardware store.
Cut stud lengths as needed and thread into hard points with a bit of epoxy.
Ive been using them for years for elevator, aileron, & rudder.

Ron Lockhart
-------------- Original message -------------- 

Matt,

I have used # 6-32 socket cap screws for years now and never had a failure
with these. Buy a box of 100 about 2" long at your local industrial supply
for about $20-25, cut of the heads, put a couple of grooves in the non threaded
part for the epoxy to hold and glue these into the hard point (1/2" dia dowel) in 
your movable surface. Do no drill all the way through. Just up to the top sheeting.
You can offset the hole in the hard point toward the hinge
line to adjust for proper distance for the hole in the plastic end, that receives the
clevis, to line up over the hinge line. Socket cap screw are heat treated, but not 
all the way. They still have a soft core and will bend under enough force, but
not with the amount of force used to move the surfaces.

Karl G. Mueller
kgamueller at rogers.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: Rcmaster199 at aol.com 
To: discussion at nsrca.org 
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Elev. Pull pull Question


Keith, please note that 4-40's are known to snap off a control surface. It has happened to me. The break is a straight forward fatigue fracture. If 6-32's are not useful to you, consider 5-40's. Personally, I do find 6-32s do just fine in this application

MattK

In a message dated 11/30/2004 3:17:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, tkeithb at comcast.net writes:
Cat's Meow? Maybe not, but darn close. The only thing that keeps them from being the Cat's Meow in my book is the 6/32 threads which don't offer as precision of adjustments as 4/40 or the MK horns. 

Lance's suggestion of offsetting the control arm at the servo is perfectly valid also.

Keith Black
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