Hot Wire

[David Harmon]

Great info Aimer....thanks!

Regards

Dave Harmon
NSRCA 586
K6XYZ[at]comcast[dot]net
Torrance, Ca. 
-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of Amir Neshati
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 1:26 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Hot Wire

Hi Ken,
 
I've used the Feather Cut wire T-370, it requires less current to cut
and does a good job of cutting precision
stuff......Since it can't tolerate slightly higher current than the
optimum range (as in breakage) I don't use
it for blocking  foam pieces to shape, where a little more speed
(current) is required. It is .018 thick.
 
I also tried inconel. It does very well for precision cuts for me. It
takes about 20%ish more current to cut
and has better tension strength in my tests......It also will tolerate
more heat for faster blocking cuts. I
haven't broken inconel yet....I have the .020 thick.
 
I've cut about a total of around 120 cores, ranging from small stabs
with high sweep angles to panels
nearly 60" long and up to 34" cords and tinier stuff the size of
helicopter blades, using white foam,
pink foam, blue foam and Spyder foam. Both wires have done a good
job cutting everything mentioned,
(did the 60" panels with inconel only) however, I prefer inconel for
now, as it has been most predictable
for my stuff. 
 
Just a little tip for non-core cutting:
 
The easiest way of blocking foam to shape (that would be cutting the top
view/planform of a wing/stab/etc.
is to hang the excess foam over the table's edge, locate the wire over
the foam and let the bow hang freely
below, then give it some current. Gravity will take it straight down and
you will catch the bow as the wire
exits the foam. The key is to center the bow's mass so the wire moves
through the foam fairly level and 
one side doesn't cut faster than the other......I also stack wings or
stabs and cut pairs at a time to get them
the same size....
 
Take care,
Amir
 
 

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