Monokote Trim Solvent

[Pascoe,Tim [Burlington]]

Larry,

 

            For the Windex method - spray a light coat of Windex on the
lower color, and 'float' the trim piece onto it. Squeegee all the Windex
out, and let it dry. Then, apply light heat to activate the glue - DON"T
overheat it or it will bubble up.

 

As for the rim solvent, the trick here is USE IT SPARINGLY! Too much,
and it will eat the glue and color right off the monocote. I use a
cotton swab; wipe it over the area to be covered, and lay down the trim
piece, starting with a small corner. I also know several people that
just lay the piece in place, and wipe the trim solvent over it - it
seeps into the edge, and holds it down.

 

            Tim

 

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of Larry Diamond
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 2:14 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent

 

Please describe the Windex method...

 

Also, I'm not the smartest guy on the block here, but what is the best
way to apply the trim solvent. I'm covering my son's trainer, and
probably got a bit more detailed than I should have. But it's what he
wanted... ;^ )

	----- Original Message ----- 

	From: Fletcher, Richard <mailto:Richard.Fletcher at gs.com>  

	To: 'geobet at gis.net' ; discussion at nsrca.org 

	Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:51 PM

	Subject: RE: Monokote Trim Solvent

	 

	For mono over mono, or mono over ultra, use the Windex method.
No bubbles, ever.

	 

	 

	 

	Rich

	 

	 

		-----Original Message-----
		From: discussion-request at nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of George Kennie
		Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:46 PM
		To: discussion at nsrca.org
		Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent

		It would appear that Mr.Kababjian is absolutely correct.
I just went and tried it out. 
		With Monokote you get one shot to position things and if
you miss by the slightest amount you're cooked. The bond is good for
eternity. 
		On the Ultra the stuff discolors the surface and the
bond can be pulled apart for quite a significant period of time. 
		In my expereience, Ultra over Ultra is way easier than
Mono! If you keep one end up in the air and work from the opposite end
with an iron, it goes down with absolutely no bubbles. The same
technique can be used with Mono and the same results can be achieved,
but I can only perform this on a solid surface. On open bay wings I
cannot get a bubbleless application. 
		People have commented "how did you do that without any
bubbles?", but I can see 'em!!!! 
		Georgie 

		Bob Pastorello wrote: 

			  Anybody know if this works for Ultracote to
Ultracote?If so, any 'special tricks'? 

			Bob Pastorello 
			NSRCA 199  AMA 46373 
			rcaerobob at cox.net 
			www.rcaerobats.net  

		  

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