elevator pushrod exits

[Troy A. Newman]

Yes the Temptation is narrower than most of the current designs at the tail
post area. This means that your elevator control horns will be closer to the
centerline of the model. This also means that you pushrod exits for the DEPS
will be further aft than my Supreme exits...This is a generality as it also
depends heavily on where you stick the elevator servo. All of these things
must be mounted up and ready to go before you install the DEPS.

TN
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tph1 at bellsouth.net>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 12:23 PM
Subject: Re: Re: elevator pushrod exits


> Thanks a lot Troy. Now I have a clear picture of what I'm doing. This is
for a Temptation and the fuse isn't very wide from the elevator servo back
so I didn't want a mess to clean up and add extra weight to the plane.
> thanks again, Tom
> >
> > From: "Troy A. Newman" <troy_newman at msn.com>
> > Date: 2004/12/06 Mon PM 01:52:55 EST
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Subject: Re: elevator pushrod exits
> >
> > The exits will depend on you servo and elevator control horn locations.
> > These need to be mounted first.
> >
> > Next locate the servo arm connection point and transpose this to the
side of
> > the fuse on the outside. We are going to project two lines down the fuse
> > with a  long 3 or 4 ft straight edge.  Looking at the side of the fuse
use
> > the straight edge to connect the mark on the side of the side up at the
> > forward servo connection and the top of the elevator control surface
horn.
> > I use masking tape on the side of the fuse near where I think everything
> > will exit. I then draw a line on the masking tape along the straight
edge. I
> > use a pencil-sharpie(thin)-or a ball point doesn't really matter.
> >
> > Next step is to transpose the mark on the side of the fuse to the bottom
of
> > the fuse.. Place the model inverted on the table or in a  stand...Apply
a
> > length of masking tape vertical to the fuse and wrap it around the fuse
past
> > the bottom seam or center location. Note if your servo connection point
is
> > not centered in the fuse you'll have to offset this belly starting point
for
> > the next projected line. My elevator connections are always in the
> > center...So my 2nd projected line starts at the fuse seam. or in the
middle.
> > If your servo connection location is 1" off to one side then you need to
> > make a mark on the masking tape in this location...This is projecting
down
> > thru the fuse..you are just transfer this location to the tape.
> >
> > Now use your 4ft straight edge again and this time go from the forward
mark
> > on the belly out directly toward the control horns. Looking down from
above
> > put a mark on the side of fuse (on your masking tape that was done in
the
> > previous line projection down the side.) Where these two projected lines
> > cross....This is your fuse exit location.  Depending on you fuse width,
> > control horn spacing from centerline, and distances to the front
> > servo...this slot is usually about 1.5 to 2" long. You will have to work
the
> > slot with a small round file to get the inside angles to prevent bending
of
> > the tubes as they exit..
> >
> > Trial fit the whole thing into place and use the round file to open the
fuse
> > up in order to eliminate bending of the tube guides as they exit. This
is
> > what causes friction in the system. Also make sure that you have no
friction
> > when the rods are in the tubes, tubes attached to the balsa sticks, and
the
> > system is not in the model. All you want is to duplicate this
non-friction
> > condition by not having the tubes bending as they exit the fuse.
> >
> > Its an easy thing once you try it. For reference my exits on my (2)
Supremes
> > are about 10inches in front of the elevator control horn locations. Yes
10
> > inches of this 0.070" pushrod is un-supported. It is still stiffer and
more
> > solid than any other system I have seen or used. Depending on how wide
your
> > fuse is, where your elevator servo is located, how long the fuse is, and
how
> > far from the centerline your elevator control horns are will determine
the
> > exit locations.
> >
> > On a fuse that is not painted or finished its cake...Make the slots
bigger
> > and allow the system to float. Then fill the excess gaps with some
> > lightweight filler. If the fuse is wood and monokote-Ultraote and
unfinished
> > its easy a small sliver of balsa can be your filler. If its already
covering
> > with iron on covering then you can patch a mistake.
> >
> >  If the model is done and painted...you have to be careful. I have done
3
> > models recently that were finished painted and done. The exit slots can
> > still be done clean and neat.
> >
> > Good Luck, Its not that hard to figure out.
> >
> > Troy
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <tph1 at bellsouth.net>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 8:51 AM
> > Subject: elevator pushrod exits
> >
> >
> > > I'm trying to figure out a way to get my Dual elevator push rod system
to
> > be installed correctly. How can I determine where the exit hole/slot
will be
> > in the fuse for this? I don't want to leave a 4" slot in the fuse as an
> > Oop's either.
> > > thanks
> > >
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