Clear Coat

Fletcher, Richard Richard.Fletcher at gs.com
Mon Dec 6 06:39:08 AKST 2004


I recall that we used Imron in the 80s when it first came out and very
quickly learned that this stuff is one of teh most dangerous cancer causing
chemicals on teh planet. Subsequently no one used it. I would use Krylon
instead of taking a chance with it. Be warned.
 
 
 
Rich
 
 
 
 ----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On
Behalf Of ray ayestaran
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 9:10 AM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Clear Coat



we have a local industrial/commercial paint store that will mix and put
imron clear coat into a spray can for $8.00. it lasts about 4 hours before
it goes solid in the can so be ready to shoot - you can put the can in the
fridge to extend its life some if necessary.  spray one wet heavy coat in a
well ventilated area using a painters mask, goggles, cover your skin and
wear rubber gloves for protection. do not use a dust mask! it will dry to
touch in an hour and completely cure overnight. nothing else has a more
brilliant, fuel proof, long lasting finish. a million years from now an
alien will find your flight box and use it for spaceship maintenance. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Ted  <mailto:tedsander at comcast.net> Sander 
To: discussion at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion at nsrca.org>  
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: Clear Coat


This isn't a pattern ship!  Heavy sealing is good - multiple coats, or fewer
heavy coats.  I just did mine straight out of the can (K&B, I think).  The
resin self levels, so no brush marks.  You can almost spray the (empty!) box
off with a garden hose to get all the dirt and sand out that accumulates
over the years.  The resin may have darkened in the sun, but since I used a
dark stain, anyway, I can't tell.  Might be an issue on light stains.

Of course, you do have to put up with the smell!

 

 

Ted

 

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On
Behalf Of Mike Austin
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 9:01 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Clear Coat

 

Thanks Ted, I hadn't given that one much thought but at least it could be
brushed on. Probably thin it way down and make it with 2 coats.

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Ted  <mailto:tedsander at comcast.net> Sander 

To: discussion at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion at nsrca.org>  

Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 4:48 PM

Subject: RE: Clear Coat

 

Good Ol' polyester resin - 15 yrs and still going strong.  Haven't tried the
newer water based versions for fuel proofing.

 

Ted Sander

 

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org>
[mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Mike Austin
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2004 8:26 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion at nsrca.org> 
Subject: Clear Coat

 

I just stained a new flight box and was thinking of a clear coat that would
be best to use. Minwax polyurethane on a test piece of wood gummed up
immediately when some fuel was applied, not good!!  Any helpful ideas would
be appreciated on what has been used that's fuel proof.

 

Thanks,

Mike Austin

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.f3a.us/pipermail/nsrca-discussion/attachments/20041206/1adde40c/attachment.html


More information about the NSRCA-discussion mailing list