Pull-Pull servos

[Rcmaster199 at aol.com]

Sure Keith, no I don't buy new equipment every year. The longest period is  
probably with Alliance. I started flying the model in 2001and stopped  flying 
it after the 2003 season. According to my log, 468 flights in the 2+  year 
span. I check things every few months as a rule just to make sure things  are 
tight etc. All servos in the fuse (original install) were fine throughout  this 
period. They are still in the plane. 
 
Wing servos had developed a slight amount of slop but wasn't bad  enough to 
tear down. Being used elsewhere now since the wing is down for  refinish.
 
Pull-pull on rudder and elevator, steel rod on throttle, 1/8" carbon rods  on 
ailerons. Note that the original rudder and stab were discarded in favor of  
lighter units. Also note that cable I use is unique: braided Kevlar with 
teflon  tape wrapping. I made this material. Very forgiving set-up, and with light  
control surfaces, less force transfers to the servo. Servos are a mix 4001,  
4131, 8231 and 8411, plus a retract servo (403?). 8411 on rudder. 
 
The servo bay in this model was equipped with a lite ply tray, a one piece  
unit that covered the whole bay. Secured to the fuse with probond. I think the  
one piece tray helps also. Engine mount is the standard Hyde type that I 
make.  Originally saw the procedure on Bob's web site and have made these ever 
since.  Very simple and very inexpensive.
 
MattK
 
In a message dated 12/1/2004 3:00:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
tkeithb at comcast.net writes:

>> I have yet to change gears on a rudder servo or have parts come  loose. 
And rudder centering is fine.
 
Matt, can you please clarify this statement? Is this because you get a  new 
plane with new servos each year, or are you saying that you go multiple  years 
without every changing servo gears? 
 
What are the most flights you have on any one rudder servo, and what type  of 
servo.
 
Thanks,
Keith Black

----- Original Message ----- 
From:  _Rcmaster199 at aol.com_ (mailto:Rcmaster199 at aol.com)  
To: _discussion at nsrca.org_ (mailto:discussion at nsrca.org)  
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 7:28  PM
Subject: Re: Pull-Pull servos



Hi Jim, the horn on the rudder should be as long as you can  bare that will 
result in minimal slack cable syndrome. I normally  use a 3" long 6-32 bolt, 
and bend it slightly to place the horns on the  hinge line. On the kits I've 
built, I typically discard the stock rudder and  build a lighter version. I shoot 
for a finished weight around 45 grams or  less for this size rudder. I keep 
the cables snug but not too tight.  NOT like a guitar string. I have yet to 
change gears on a rudder servo  or have parts come loose. And rudder centering is 
fine.
 
Matt





 
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