Tuned pipes for dummies....feedback sought???

[jivey61 at bellsouth.net]

 Chris
 I use the ES pipe also along with the Central header.I use the Dave Brown pipe mount,just the part the tie wrap goes through.Mount this to the frame in 2 places with  6-32 screws and a fiber lock nuts. Around the pipe put a tiewrap that is inside a piece of neopreme fuel tubing (big blue). Support the pipe in 2 places, 2 inches from the stinger and 2 inches aft of the entrance pipe on the big part of the pipe.
The only problem I ever had was the vibration ate 2 holes in the pipe where the plastic Dave Brown mount rubbed the pipe. To fix this I use a piece of blue header tubing between the pastic mount and the pipe.
Do not worry about heat the carbon fiber pipe does no get hot.It is barely warm after a flight.
This works for me and it's easy to work with,just cut ties and go to work.Replace with new ties in the tubing.

 Hope this helps.

Jim Ivey
> 
> From: "White, Chris" <chris at ssd.fsi.com>
> Date: 2004/08/18 Wed PM 04:12:26 EDT
> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> Subject: Tuned pipes for dummies....feedback sought???
> 
> help????
> 
> I have a new Arresti III that will be using a YS 140 FZ and the new coupler from Central with an (enclosed) ES carbon fiber pipe and the Hyde ARIA mount.	Merle Hyde says the pipe needs to be pretty flexible in mounting to avoid header breakage. He also warns to tighten the hyde mount screws aggressively.
> 
> 	My thought was to mount a single clamp on the CG of the pipe with a Dave Brown hush clamp pipe mount.  (O ring retention on a composite clamp) I have used this mounting style very successfully on a Greve pipe / Webra 145 combo, but have questions about the durability based on what I hear about pipe heat increase when running a 4 stroke.
> 
> Can anyone tell me whether they have experience with the Dave Brown mount and four stroke pipes?   Do carbon fiber pipes get hotter than aluminum ones???  How do you typically retain a carbon fiber pipe without worrying about pipe distortion?
> 
> Chris
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: discussion-request at nsrca.org
> [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Richard Strickland
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 2:36 PM
> To: discussion at nsrca.org
> Subject: Re: Dented pipe
> 
> 
> Depends where they are.  If not too far in from the charge end, a mandrel
> 8-18" OAL from 3/8" steel round with about a 15 degree kink in it 2" from
> the(to be) rounded end or so clamped in a vise works reasonably well for
> wheedling them out--kind of like the paintless dent removal guys use.  There
> are also sheet metal suckers--but I'm not that familiar with them.  Or turn
> the dent toward the fuse--dents do not affect performance detectably.
> 
> RS
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Fletcher, Richard" <Richard.Fletcher at gs.com>
> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 12:53 PM
> Subject: Dented pipe
> 
> 
> > I just received my new OS 160 pipe and the gorillas at UPS were true to
> form
> > and stomped on it and it now has a couple of dents. Does anyone know how
> to
> > remove them?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Rich
> >
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