Webra Bearing Change

[Richard Strickland]

I'm reasonably certain he knew precisely what he was talking about.

Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at comcast.net>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Webra Bearing Change


> Sounds like Dub didn't understand what you were talking about. He's very
> knowledgeable and I can't imagine he would suggest that if he knew how the
> engine was designed and understood what you were asking.
>
> Keith
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Strickland" <richard.s at allied-callaway.com>
> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 8:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Webra Bearing Change
>
>
> > Had the same issue with Bullys--Called Dub Jett after someone suggested
it
> > and he said he has a small pry bar that he prys the rod of with.  I
> > asked-"Won't that hurt the rod/bushing/pin/crank?"  "Naw--maybe an extra
> > lubrication groove in the rod bushing. Have the prop and backplate on
and
> > really honked down to pull the crank in as far as possible. Also, grind
a
> > LITTLE chamfer on the crank pin to make reassembly easier."  I've found
a
> > 4-6mm allen wrench works well.  No s**t.
> >           Richard
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Budd" <jbudd at QNET.COM>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 8:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: Webra Bearing Change
> >
> >
> > > >OK-- while we are talking Webras, any secrets in changing the
bearings.
> > > >
> > > >With over  20 gals through mine, I finally detected some movement.
> > > >I'm trying to get the connecting rod off the crank pin, but it gets
> > > >about 3/4 out and doesn't want to go further with "normal" force.
> > > >
> > > >Yes, the piston sleeve is out and the conn rod is slid as far to the
> > > >rear as it appears to go. You don't pull the piston wrist pin or
> > > >anything special like that?
> > > >
> > >
> > > Uh, yes you do.
> > >
> > > Remove the rear wrist pin retaining clip, clean away any carbon
> > > buildup from the aft wrist pin access hole in the piston, and then
> > > thread one of the head screws into the wrist pin.  Grab the screw
> > > head with some pliers and pull - HARD.  The key to this is lightly
> > > scrapping away any carbon buildup from the aft wrist pin hole on the
> > > piston (I use an X-Acto knife to do this).
> > >
> > > It's not like the OS where you can remove the rod from the crank pin
> > > without removing the wrist pin.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> > > --
> > > ___________
> > > Jerry Budd
> > > mailto:jbudd at qnet.com
> > > =====================================
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