Webra Bearing Change

[Richard Strickland]

Had the same issue with Bullys--Called Dub Jett after someone suggested it
and he said he has a small pry bar that he prys the rod of with.  I
asked-"Won't that hurt the rod/bushing/pin/crank?"  "Naw--maybe an extra
lubrication groove in the rod bushing. Have the prop and backplate on and
really honked down to pull the crank in as far as possible. Also, grind a
LITTLE chamfer on the crank pin to make reassembly easier."  I've found a
4-6mm allen wrench works well.  No s**t.
          Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Budd" <jbudd at QNET.COM>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Webra Bearing Change


> >OK-- while we are talking Webras, any secrets in changing the bearings.
> >
> >With over  20 gals through mine, I finally detected some movement.
> >I'm trying to get the connecting rod off the crank pin, but it gets
> >about 3/4 out and doesn't want to go further with "normal" force.
> >
> >Yes, the piston sleeve is out and the conn rod is slid as far to the
> >rear as it appears to go. You don't pull the piston wrist pin or
> >anything special like that?
> >
>
> Uh, yes you do.
>
> Remove the rear wrist pin retaining clip, clean away any carbon
> buildup from the aft wrist pin access hole in the piston, and then
> thread one of the head screws into the wrist pin.  Grab the screw
> head with some pliers and pull - HARD.  The key to this is lightly
> scrapping away any carbon buildup from the aft wrist pin hole on the
> piston (I use an X-Acto knife to do this).
>
> It's not like the OS where you can remove the rod from the crank pin
> without removing the wrist pin.
>
> Jerry
> --
> ___________
> Jerry Budd
> mailto:jbudd at qnet.com
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