Remote Glow Question

Mon Apr 19 14:08:36 AKDT 2004

I don't know if this answers your questions or not, but I used the Sullivan
remote glow device Central sells on my 170.  Twist-lock the piece on the
plug just like it appears.  I attached the negative end to one of the bolts
that was holding the engine to the Hyde ARI mount.  This worked just fine.
The 170 on the ARI mount was shaking an incredible amount which was breaking
Sullivan professional head locks at a record pace.  Also, this combination
could destroy the Dubro or Sullivan glow-clip type devices within two
weekends of flying.  I don't think the ARI is a good mount for the 170.  

Tip:  If you use the Sullivan remote glow device, be VERY delicate with the
negative wire that goes into the back of the artificial glow plug.  I would
suggest filling this with RTV, epoxy, etc.  The good thing about this setup
is that due to the short twist lock, you can change plugs very quickly.

Tip:  What ever you use, make sure you have an exaggerated amount of
clearance for the glow device to swing with the initial kick of the motor
(especially if it has even a tiny amount of fuel in the engine).  I have
broken the tip off about 10 OSF plugs this year because of excessive
vibration with the glow device on, or actually hitting the cowl with the
attached glow clip during starting.  

Jim W.

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On
Behalf Of richard.lewis
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:54 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: RE: Remote Glow Question

Why would you need to remove the anodizing from the plug seat.  The plug
threads are not anodized are they?  The thread contact area should be more
that sufficient to conduct current from the plug body to the head.  I
understand the need to remove the anodizing at one of the cylinder bolts,
but not the plug seat.

Richard

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org
[mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On Behalf Of
patterndude at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 4:47 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Remote Glow Question

I'm not Ed, but as a seller of these engines, I can answer.  The anodizing
is non-conductive so you need an electrical conductive path from the glow
plug body back to the ground side of your glow driver.  I found a two wire
glow plug clip at a hobby show a few years ago that had one wire for the
center pin and another for the glow plug body.  The clip was shaped like the
end of a glow driver and made contact with both parts of the plug.
   The lightweight clips people have been discussing on this list only
connect to the glow plug center pin.  The ground side of the connection
consists of a wire that connects to one of the engine mount screws.  The
assumption is that there is electrical conductivity from the engine mount
lug to the glow plug body.  For this to work at least one of the head
mounting bolts must have a bolt head seat that is not anodized and the glow
plug seat must also be non-anodized.  The Mintor heads already have a
non-anodized mount bolt seat, but you may want to check if you continue to
have problems.
   When removing the anodizing from the glow plug seat you need to be very
careful.  The glow plug needs to seat and seal so that it does not leak.
The copper washer helps, but if the seat area becomes rough or distorted, it
will be too much for the copper washer to compensate for.  I used a dremel
grinding bit that was made of stone and had a flat tip.  It was small enough
to fit into the glow plug recess.  However, I mounted it in my variable
speed drill, not my dremel, so I could control the grinding and remove the
absolute minimum of material without causing any distortion.  All you want
to do is remove the anodizing and you don't even have to remove it
completely. Just enough so that their is electrical connection.
  Believe me, it takes longer to read this than to do it.
--Lance

--
District 6 AVP
www.aeroslave.com
> Ed, I am having the same problem with the Mintor head. What exactly did
you have
> to scrath off. I couldn't get contact either on the lug. JEZ
>
> =====================================
> # To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
> and follow the instructions.
>
=====================================
# To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
and follow the instructions.

=====================================
# To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
and follow the instructions.
=====================================
# To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
and follow the instructions.