CONTROL HORNS Drill

[Verne Koester]

Larry,
Thanks,
I'll have to try it. I never have, assuming it would chew up the balsa.

Verne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Caldwell" <larryc at bscn.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: CONTROL HORNS Drill


> Verne,
>
> Yes, I've had good luck with them on balsa.  Just keep the pressure
> applied pretty light and you get a nice clean hole.
>
> Larry
>
> Verne Koester wrote:
> > Larry,
> > Are you talking about using a Forstner bit on balsa?
> >
> > Verne
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Caldwell" <larryc at bscn.com>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: CONTROL HORNS Drill
> >
> >
> >
> >>A Fostner bit works well too, and cuts a hole with cleaner edges than
> >>does a hole saw.  You still need something behind the wood you are
> >>drilling.  I got mine from Lowes.
> >>
> >>Larru
> >>
> >>ronlock at comcast.net wrote:
> >>
> >>>One more alternative -
> >>>You can drill holes for dowels with a hole saw.
> >>>It still takes a wood backing and maybe the masking
> >>>tape as well on the back side of the drilled hole.
> >>>Personally, I use 5/8 inch dowels in lieu of 1/2.
> >>>
> >>>Ron Lockhart
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>Sorry....typing more than thinking ;-)
> >>>>
> >>>>I put a piece of masking tape on the outside of the sheeting of the
> >
> > surface
> >
> >>>>being bored.  If it's relatively sawdust-free, and good tape, it will
> >
> > hold
> >
> >>>>the fibers together as the brass tube cuts through.
> >>>>   I drill mine in the drill press, using the shucks on the press
> >
> > table,
> >
> >>>>drilling from the upper surface to the lower, so the tape is on the
> >
> > lower
> >
> >>>>surface, and against the shuck.
> >>>>   Holding moderate pressure to the surface/shuck, the drill press
with
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>tube will go through it like butter, with only light pressure needed.
> >>>>   Using this technique, one can do both ailerons, both elevators, and
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>rudder in about 5 minutes, if being slow.
> >>>>   Hardwood dowels are coated with thin epoxy, inserted flush with the
> >>>>sheeting.  If you're cautious, and pre-measure and sand the angles,
> >
> > these
> >
> >>>>can be very cleanly glued in place.
> >>>>   After they're cured, drill centers in the same shucks for the 6-32
> >
> > bolt.
> >
> >>>>   Works just dandy.
> >>>>
> >>>>Bob Pastorello, Oklahoma
> >>>>NSRCA 199, AMA 46373
> >>>>rcaerobob at cox.net
> >>>>www.rcaerobats.net
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>----- Original Message -----
> >>>>From: "Martin X. Moleski, SJ" <moleski at canisius.edu>
> >>>>To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> >>>>Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 7:58 PM
> >>>>Subject: Re: CONTROL HORNS
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>--On Wednesday, September 03, 2003 5:43 PM -0500 Bob Pastorello
> >>>>
> >>>><rcaerobob at cox.net> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>Masking tape on the back side of the tubing drill prevents the
> >
> > tear-out.
> >
> >>>>>Bob, with a round tube, I'm having trouble picturing the "back side."
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Do you just mean to wrap masking tape around the tube near the
cutting
> >>>>>edge?  A depth stop?  Masking tape on the back side of the balsa
being
> >>>>>cut?
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Thanks for clarifying.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Marty #2874
> >>>>>=====================================
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> >>>>>
> >>>>
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> >>>.
> >>>
> >>
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> >
> >
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