CONTROL HORNS

[Wayne Galligan]

One thing to remember when using this method is to make sure the 1/2" brass
tubing cutting edge is sharp. Otherwise it will tear out on the bottom or
you will have to use excessive pressure to cut and this can cause a
misalignment to occur.  BTDT

Wayne G.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Woodward James R Civ 412 TW/DRP/ACQ" <James.Woodward2 at edwards.af.mil>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:48 PM
Subject: RE: CONTROL HORNS


> Nice one Wayne.
>
> A simple way to drill the holes for the dowel is to tape your aileron onto
> the foam core in its original position.  Then, use a drill press to go
> straight up and down.  I've done this a few times and it is easy.  It it
> much easier in practice, than in discussion.  You can also try it on a
trial
> piece too.
> Jim
>
>
> Subject: CONTROL HORNS
>
> Keith......
>
> Don't make such a fuss about this control horn thing.  Go down to Ace
> Hardware and get the longest 6-32 bolts you can, about 3-4 inch are
> available.  Then in the small hardware section get threaded aluminum
sleeves
> for 6-32.  These come in 1/2 and 3/4 inch lengths.  These make perfect
> standoffs for the control arms, strengthening the rod and an ideal way to
> lock the rod to the hard point.(this was Lances idea BTW).   I have had no
> problem getting these things to line up with the hinge line.  When
drilling
> your hard surface for the hardpoint and for the rod.  Put the control
> surface temporally on with the hinges in place and place in the shuck
half.
> Using your drill press take a 1/2 brass tube(tube edge sharpened on
sanding
> disk) and drill out the surface for the hard dowel.  Do the same for when
> drilling the hole for 6-32 rod.  Tap through and then drip thin c/a in the
> hole, let cure and retap again to harden the threads.
> As Bob P. stated... this system will function just fine. And you wont have
> to worry about ordering parts from a foreign country.  Ideally if you can
> find some #6 fine threaded bolts it would give you finer adjustment but I
> don't think it would be necessary.   I have used the nylon 2-56 clevis on
> the elevator pull/pull on my Prophecy that had over 450 flights on it
before
> it went in and there was little to no wear in the control horn (as per Bob
> P.'s recommendation).   I used kevlar cable and it was in good shape also.
> Very light and strong setup.
>
> Wayne G.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at comcast.net>
> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 11:33 AM
> Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or... ?
>
>
> > That looks quite interesting. I do have a couple of concerns however.
> >
> > Given that the mounting plate (foot) is perpendicular to the arm when
the
> > arm is mounted on a control surface with an air foil shape the arm will
> > actually be pointing backwards away from the hinge line. To avoid this
one
>
>
>
> > would either need to prop up the back side of the mounting plate or
recess
> > the front of the plate down into the control surface. With this
particular
> > design it seems that you'd have to cut pretty deeply into the control
> > surface on the leading edge to get the arm to be perpendicular to the
> hinge
> > line.
> >
> > Second concern is that the arm is not located on the edge of the
mounting
> > plate, which means that it would be moved back a bit from the bevel thus
> > offsetting the advantage of the longer arm.
> >
> > I promise I'm not trying to be difficult ;-)
> >
> > Keith
>
>
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