Control horns, is it just me or... ?

[GW]

What I do on ailerons and elev.

Install 1/2" dowel in surface. starting roughly 1/8" from LE bevel.
Set up drill press plate for a 10 degree table tilt. 
Tape moveable surface into the aileron(elev) cutout shuck (bottom of surface up) WIth it in its shuck and the 10 degree angle on the Press, drill 1/8 hole through the Dowel starting at about the top of the beveled surface . This will put the exit near the rear of the dowel on the top of surface, but it does not matter. Shoot a 6/32 hardened bolt though the dowel, It will be tight, but thats what were looking for, let it tap its own threads as your run it in. Go about 3/4 the way into the surface and stop. cutoff the excess with the cutoff wheel.
Attach your favorite aileron connector and clevis now, and you will be very close to the hingeline.

Or you can do as a majority do, and dont worry about it. Youcan use your CRC meter to get the deflections the same. Our really neat computer radios have taken alot of the need to build perfect out of the equation. 
I like to do it right myself, but thats just me.

This is just one way to do it with minimal trouble, and less expense. Im sure others will have a better approach that works for them.

I can draw CorelDraw or ACAD file that would illustrate this better if anyone has an interest.



GW
Gerald Williams
Email : gw at gwair.com
Webpage: www.gwair.com

Support Tony Stillman District 5 VP
http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Keith Black 
  To: discussion at nsrca.org 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 8:57 PM
  Subject: Control horns, is it just me or... ?


  When it comes to control horns for pattern planes it seems to me that some of the most commonly used choices have a major flaw.

  On my last plane I used the MK Aluminum Horns on all surfaces except for the rudder where I used the IM pull-pull horns. Both of these are nice horns except they have a major flaw when using a pull-pull setup. The flaw is that the little black plastic arm that screws onto the horn and connects to the clevis is so short that it doesn't extend out over the hinge line. I know that with pull-pull systems it isn't *absolutely* necessary for the connection to be exactly above the hinge, but the further back it is the more slack there will be in the cable that is not pulling.  In my opinion with these horns the connection point is too far away from the hinge unless the horn is virtually mounted on the control surface bevel (especially when it comes to rudder). This can easily be seen in these "instructions" for installing the MK horns http://www.centralhobbies.com/buildingtips/mkhorns/mkhornsinst.html. Notice that in this picture there surface isn't beveled yet and the horn is almost on the edge.

  On my new plane I wanted to avoid this problem so I did some searching to find a better solution. To begin with I looked for a longer arm to connect to the MK horn, one that would extend out to the hinge line. I found two options from Sullivan but both require too big of a horn thread (6-32 and 8-32). My search then led me to two other choices that seem to be good alternatives. The first is the ZNLine aluminum control horns, but these are apparently only distributed by ZNLine (http://www.znline.com/produits.php?langue=english&cle_menus=1025879382&cle_data=1025901639) which means an international order. The other solution I've found is by RC Model Enterprises (http://home.att.net/~rc-enterprises/rcme_014.htm) but these control horns seem very pricey!

  If anyone could point me to a longer 3mm connecting arm that will fit on the MK and IM horns I'd be happy (BTW, I've used the MK BB connectors on the MK horn and they still aren't really long enough).

  Is it just me, or have others experienced this dilemma as well?

  Thanks,
  Keith Black
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