Painting - What's Airbrush are U using

[John Ferrell]

I am a tool fanatic. There are only two kinds of tools: ones I have & ones I
want!
If you can manage the really good stuff, by all means do it!

If that prices you out of the painting process, do not despair!
If you are patient and willing to use the PPG Concept product you can do a
PERFECT
job with $5 external mix airburush from Harbor Freight. You will need about
20 pounds
air pressure, just about any compressor will handle the volume needed. You
will need to
regulate down to that pressure. It helps to have a moisture trap but you can
get by without
one.

When you make a mess, accept the fact that you will need to let it cure,
sand it out and
work some more. My only complaint with PPG Concept is that it is really toug
to remove!

The big difference with a beginner's paint job and  someone with a lot of
experience is the
weight.  Concept weighs the same on the airplane as it does in the can.



John Ferrell
6241 Phillippi Rd
Julian NC 27283
Phone: (336)685-9606
Dixie Competition Products
NSRCA 479 AMA 4190  W8CCW
"My Competition is Not My Enemy"

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Flynt" <davidflynt at earthlink.net>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: Painting - What's Airbrush are U using


> I use a Badger 150 airbrush for tiny areas.  I also have a Sata Minijet 3
> 1.1mm touch up gun for spraying entire fuselages.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: discussion-request at nsrca.org
> [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Tomic, Stephen
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 1:16 PM
> To: 'discussion at nsrca.org'
> Subject: Painting - What's Airbrush are U using
>
>
> What airbrush are you guys using ? I'm getting ready to purchase one (
> already have an air compressor) so any input would be welcome!
> Thanks,
> Stephen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Verne Koester [mailto:verne at twmi.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 4:08 PM
> To: discussion at nsrca.org
> Subject: Re: Painting
>
>
> Keith,
> Thanks, I've done this sort of thing before as well. In the current case,
> I'm trying to keep the paint job to the absolute minimum weight gain.
>
> Verne
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at attbi.com>
> To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 12:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Painting
>
>
> > First off I need to point out that I'm a super duper novice at painting,
> but
> > I'm learning (the hard way in most cases). Also, given that I don't know
> > your color scheme my comments may not apply, but here it goes anyway.
> >
> > When I painted my Aries I tried to make sure to lay down the lighter
> colors
> > first and then cover with the darker colors. This allowed me to butt the
> > colors up to each other while only laying down one tape strip between
> > colors.
> >
> > For example, I painted the bottom 3/4 of the plane white with no masking
> at
> > all. Then I masked off everything I wanted to leave white and sprayed my
> > yellow coat. Note, that I didn't worry about masking areas that would be
> > painted the next color (red), I just allowed the yellow to overlap those
> > areas slightly. I then masked off everything I wanted to stay yellow or
> > white and sprayed my red coat. This means that the red was sprayed over
> the
> > yellow where the yellow and red meet, but since red easily covers yellow
I
> > didn't worry about it.  I then masked off everything except for a strip
I
> > wanted to paint dark blue and then sprayed the dark blue.
> >
> > To me this seemed like a good approach because laying down a tape strip
> > exactly on an existing color line seems like it would be very difficult
> and
> > error prone. I just didn't worry if an earlier color accidentally
sprayed
> on
> > a location that would be covered by a later (darker) color. BTW, my
seams
> > came out great.
> >
> > I suppose that my practices may be a bad idea in some cases if the color
> > being sprayed over a previous color is light enough to have its tint
> altered
> > by the lower color, however in my case it worked fine. After everything
> was
> > complete you wouldn't have any idea that there is yellow under the red,
> > white under the yellow, etc. Using this approach my seams came out fine.
> >
> > As to sanding the seams I was advised to wait until I had all colors
down
> > before sanding, however I never re-taped a seam as you are describing.
> >
> > Hopefully these comments aren't totally off in left field :-)
> >
> > Keith Black
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Verne Koester" <verne at twmi.rr.com>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:03 PM
> > Subject: Re: Painting
> >
> >
> > > Tom,
> > > Thanks, this is the answer I was looking for. May have to go back to
my
> > old
> > > scheme with white in between the colors. This is too much work!!!! Of
> > > course, the monocote will be easier w/o the white in between.....
> > >
> > > Verne
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
> > > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:52 PM
> > > Subject: RE: Painting
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I agree about clear over base..it can be a pain. It is quick though.
I
> > > > unfortunately have gallons of the stuff..and I'm not changing
systems
> > > until
> > > > I use it all up!!!
> > > >
> > > > Down here its called PPG Cobra..the colours seem to be more vibrant
> than
> > > any
> > > > other system however.....looks great until the fuel gets under
it!!!!!
> > > >
> > > > In your case I would knock down the edges as you go, thats how I
used
> to
> > > do
> > > > it with a previous paint system.
> > > > Van is on the money about pulling the tape once it has gone a
little.
> As
> > > you
> > > > have shot the first colour already, pull the tape and then knock
down
> > the
> > > > edge, as Todd suggested.. For the following colours, do as Van
> > > > suggests...but you may still have to do a bit of sanding inbetween
> > > >
> > > > Fear not ..it will work out ok. Good luck.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > >
> > > > > ----------
> > > > > From: Verne Koester[SMTP:verne at twmi.rr.com]
> > > > > Reply To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 29 April 2003 12:36
> > > > > To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > > Subject: Re: Painting
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom,
> > > > > I've only shot one color so far using Concept. However, all the
tape
> > is
> > > in
> > > > > place for all the colors. The real question here is what to do
about
> > > each
> > > > > color after it's shot. Sand the little ridge right away, or just
> butt
> > up
> > > > > to
> > > > > it and sand after it's all done before the clear. BTW, this is the
> > first
> > > > > time I've tried Concept (from Radio South) and so far, I like it a
> > lot.
> > > > > Previously, I used PPG Acrylic Enamel and K&B Superpoxy. I've
never
> > > cared
> > > > > for the idea of the basecoat system for fear of it disintegrating
> > under
> > > > > the
> > > > > clear from fuel penetration.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Verne
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
> > > > > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > > > > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:18 PM
> > > > > Subject: RE: Painting
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Verne,
> > > > > > I'm assuming you're already done and now have a ridge.
> > > > > > if you are using a clear -over base system ..be careful as they
do
> > not
> > > > > wet
> > > > > > sand well. The colours will 'bleed' into each other if you do.
> Just
> > > > > scuff
> > > > > > the edges dry with 1500 or finer , blow off the dust and then
wipe
> > > using
> > > > > a
> > > > > > lightly damp chamois. Metallic's should not be sanded at all if
> you
> > > can
> > > > > > avoid it, if you have to, do it in one direction only, no
circular
> > > > > sanding
> > > > > > at all. The scratches will show even under a clear coat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > If it is a two pack colour already, go for your life and wet
sand
> > > > > lightly.
> > > > > > You will then probably need to do a final wet sand once all your
> > > colours
> > > > > are
> > > > > > down. Then give it a clear coat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > For a real killer finish..then wet sand your clear coat and
> machine
> > > > > buff.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Tom
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > ----------
> > > > > > > From: Verne Koester[SMTP:verne at twmi.rr.com]
> > > > > > > Reply To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, 29 April 2003 11:45
> > > > > > > To: NSRCA
> > > > > > > Subject: Painting
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm in the process of painting my Smaragd and this is the
first
> > time
> > > > > I've
> > > > > > > chosen a color scheme where the colors butt up to each other.
In
> > the
> > > > > past,
> > > > > > > I've always used a white separation stripe between each color.
> My
> > > > > question
> > > > > > > is whether you wet sand the ridge at the tape line before you
> mask
> > > for
> > > > > the
> > > > > > > next color, or do you just tape off the color that was already
> > > > > applied,
> > > > > > > pull off the previous masking tape and shoot the next one. I'm
> > using
> > > > > 3M
> > > > > > > fine-line tape.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Verne
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > >
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