OS After Run Rituals

[Anthony Abdullah]

Does the "run the engine dry rule only apply to 2-strokes? I was told by someone that I repect that when I am done frlying my YS 120 for the day to just take the fuel out of it and go home, and sometimes he even skips step one. He mentioned that after run oil was only necessary at the end of the season or during prolonged storage. 

EHaury at aol.com wrote:Bob

Many years ago I ran a lab test that measured the rust prevention performance of various additives and oils. Basically the test consisted of dipping a small, clean steel plate into the test oil, allowing it to "drip dry" for a period, then suspending the plate in a humidity cabinet (100% humidity @ 100 deg F) on a carousel with stainless hooks for some time. 

Antirust additives work, viscosity works (thick, remember Cosmoline), and the combination is best. I recall that a well additized, thin, gun oil didn't prevent rust nearly as well as non-additized 50W oil.

Generally things like motor oils (including synthetics), transmission fluids, etc., contain very little, if any, antirust additive but will work somewhat because of their viscosity. The thick stuff makes starting difficult. Gun oils (thin), air tool oils (thicker), and some specialty antirust fluids work and are reasonable to clear when starting. The problem is that most of these "oils" don't mix well with methanol.

Which gets us to considering glow fuel with antirust additives and a small amount of castor (2 - 3%). The viscous castor + additive is miscible with the methanol in the fuel, and both contribute to rust prevention. Just run the engine dry to minimize hydrated methanol, the castor and additives will stay in the bearings. If you wish to add something, make sure that it has the desirable properties. 

Earl 
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