MK retrofit question

[Rcmaster199 at aol.com]

In a message dated 12/26/2003 10:18:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
aabdu at sbcglobal.net writes:


> Subj:MK retrofit question 
> Date:12/26/2003 10:18:02 AM Eastern Standard Time
> From:aabdu at sbcglobal.net
> Reply-to:discussion at nsrca.org
> To:discussion at nsrca.org
> Sent from the Internet 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all, I recently acquired a very nice pattern plane that is set up for 
> dual elevator servos in the stabs. That is not my favorite set up as I hate 
> spending the time trying to get the throws exactly the same. Furthermore I 
> noticed about 6 ounces of lead in the nose which I definitely hate and would 
> like to eliminate. As such I want to convert it to a single servo up front and 
> either a carbon fiber pushrod with Y rods, or the MK dual elevator system 
> which I have had very good luck with. I would even entertain the possibility of a 
> pull pull elevator if it is lighter and less of a pain to install. 
>  
> My question:
> Are there any tricks that I could use to make the retrofit less of a 
> surgical nightmare? I would like to install it with a minimum disturbance to the 
> finish so I don't have to do a lot of refinishing and color matching. 
>  
> The plane:
> Odyssey, narrow fiberglass fuselage relative to the widebodies that are 
> currently in vogue, OS 140 RX. 
>  
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> TIA
> Anthony 
> 

Anthony, You need to determine what kind of room you have available in the 
radio compartment. Find an area that will accomodate the elevator servo on its 
side, that will also allow the cables to be on the fuse centerline. Ideally, 
you also want the servo output shaft to be in line with the stab, so there is no 
(or little) angle between the output shaft and the stab. A pull-pull set-up 
is the easiest and best method for accuracy and lightness, but the cables need 
to run on the fuse centerline or as close as possible, and with no or minimal 
angle to the stab. If you have that kind of clearance in the fuse, then it 
would work better than the other methods you mentioned.

Assuming you have that kind of room, place a long  straightedge on the 
outside of the fuse, from the elevator horn locations to the servo centerline, and 
mark the spots on the fuse side where the cables will exit. I use a small saw 
wheel on the dremmel and work carefully to cut the cable exit slits at the 
correct angles. The saw cuts just the right width needed to accomodate my teflon 
coated Kevlar cable material and do not use anything on the fuse sides as 
guides. Not necessary.

If you need other info or detail, contact me directly.

Matt K

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