30 second setup for the YS 140DZ

[don szczur]

Tony, excellent.  After an experence last weekend, I must emphasize one other point- use the foam clunk pick-up, but avoid using a standard clunk.  

Spent an hour helping a gent after he lost a couple of rounds at NARCA confirming the fact.  Did save him an unnecessary shipping charge back to YS.  After fighting the engine for a dozen or so flights for the past several weekends, he was happy to finally have the problem solved by using the YS foam clunk.  

Don


-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Stillman <tony at radiosouthrc.com>
To: discussion at nsrca.org <discussion at nsrca.org>
Date: Monday, April 07, 2003 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: 30 second setup for the YS 140DZ


  Don:

  Good info for all.. However, the bladder tank is not really needed..  Just use the pickup supplied by YS and it will run just fine.  Sure saves the worry about splitting a bladder.

  Tony Stillman
  Radio South, Inc.
  3702 N. Pace Blvd.
  Pensacola, Fl 32505
  www.radiosouthrc.com
  800-962-7802
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: don szczur 
    To: discussion at nsrca.org 
    Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 10:47 PM
    Subject: 30 second setup for the YS 140DZ


    Thought I'd offer some quick set-up tips for anyone interested.  If you have an excellent system that works for you, no need to read on.  For those remaining:

    1. Use a good hot glow igniter.  The fuel injection cools the plug more than conventional induction engines.  You'll know if you hear the engine pop, then no fire at all while spinning the prop and running the starter battery (as the engine floods).

    2.  Set up fuel line/filter so its external about 2 inches (the holder can reach over and pinch line if engine gets flooded while starting)  Also the filter external is easy for maintenance and diagnostics (those tiny bubbes from a faulty fuel line).

    3.  Start engine.  Should start easily with a high torque starter.  Start with needle out quite a bit, pump setting varies.  (I have heard the recommendation of just a little recessed; almost flush with screw housings, or, start with factory setting).

    4.  If engine does not idle (loads up an quits after 10 seconds) screw the pump out.  Mine took quite a bit out- about 3/4 turn out from being flush with pump screw housing.

    5. With needle rich (I put mine out 2 1/2 turns)  run full throttle, then reduce back to idle, screw in a quarter turn, run full throttle (you should hear an rpm increase). Keep doing this process til you year that increase, go another 1/4 turn until it does not increase or starts to knock. Then back off an eight to quarter turn.  Note- during each run-up, I'm not running at full throttle for more than about 3 seconds.  Why?  So the engine does not over-heat if going in too far.

    6 Fly.  Great idle on the ground and excellent runs.

    For reference, here are my settings.  Fly JR,  Don

    Engine: YS 140DZ
    Prop: APC 16x12 (keeps prop noise down)
    Pipe; ES- XL (2C pipe)  Less expensive and quiet
    Fuel:  Magnum Heli Pro
    Glow Plug: OS F
    Filter:  YS 
    Tank:  Tetra 18 oz w/bladder
    Needle- about 1 5/8 out.
    Pump- about 3/4 turn past flush.

    Discussion:  The pump (turning it out) makes it pump with less pressure, thus the need to screw out the needle.  The less pressure also results in leaner idle.  Likewise, turning the pump screw in makes the pump (pump more).  Turn it in too much and the fuel line pops off at the injector!  No need for this much pressure.  

    Note on bladder-  first one broke after 10 gallons.  Second one is still going. I now fill tank as normal, but as its getting to the top, pump very slowly so the (balloon) is not too stessed.  Fuel should dribble out, interspersed with bubbles.

    Good flying, Don


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